Debbie klettert Furunkulose 7a+











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December 23rd 2010

the cancelation agreement is signed, my last day working for Siemens after 10 years. Our
gear is sorted and the touring bicycle is ready to go. There's is still a bit of work for the new edition of the climbing guide for Frankenjura to do and in mid-February we want to cycle from Erlangen (Germany) to Japan.

The days after Christmas see me running around drawing topos of new routes and cliffs in Frankenjura despite cold weather and deep snow. On a very cold day my feet become numb at -15°C, despite heavy mountain boots, warm socks and gaiters. The feel comes back two hours later in a warm supermarket.

January 12th 2011

on an easy walk around Vilanova de Meia on the south side of the Pyrenees the Achilles tendon in my right heel starts hurting. During the following two weeks the pain gets worse. Walking, cycling and climbing are almost impossible. Diagnosis: achillodynia. In the next two and a half months I visit several doctors, go to physiotherapy and spend most of the time at home behind the computer, without much change.

The cycling trip we had been planning for so long, gets postponed more and more. In early April I find a doctor in Nuremberg, who mobilises my thoracic spine, starts a functional neural therapy and recommends consulting another dentist. The pain is much better within days and 6 weeks later I carefully start climbing again.

Debbie is back working for Siemens in her old job on a 4 months contract and I start working on an iPhone App of the Frankenjura guidebook. A longer cycling trip is out of question, so we buy a used VW campervan and start a climbing trip to Norway.




Our home for the next 7 weeks


First stop is the Russian consulate in Munich, to pick up the transit visa for St. Petersburg.

Next destination on our way to Scandinavia is Ith, a long row of limestone cliffs in Northern Germany between Kassel and Hanover. We have a beautiful, sunny day and enjoy the solitude of climbing during the week.






Great Belt Bridge


A long day's drive takes us through Denmark and
via the Great Belt and Öresundbridges to Gothenburg in Sweden. There are many cliffs around here, but the climbing guide is out of print (2011) and nobody can tell us, when the next edition is coming out. Fuel is a lot cheaper in Sweden, so we fill up before the border and head to Norway the same evening.

In 2011 the Norwegian
Boltefund has brought out an excellent guidebook called "Climb Norway" with 35 sport climbing areas between Kristiansand and Nordkapp. The guidebook can be ordered from Oslo Sportslager. We are looking for cliffs with bolted routes between 6a and 7c and the approach should not be longer than 10 minutes.





Missingmyr


The first area in Norway is Missingmyr. A 20 m wall with 30 routes between 5c and 8a in slightly overhanging gneiss with many edges and sidepulls. The routes are pumpy and we enjoy climbing on metamorphic rock. Its Saturday and the weather is warm and dry. We meet a Swiss couple Basti and Corinne. They started their road trip through Europe and northern Africa in February and want to spend 4 weeks in Norway. Maybe we will see them again somewhere.






Chanterelles

In the forests of southern Norway its mushroom season. Debbie is busy collecting chanterelles and not bothered by heavy rain. We're having a wonderful dinner together with our friends Moni and Nils, who are on their way to a national park in northern Norway to go hiking and canoeing.

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